The sole affects far more than grip alone. It also changes the feel, flexibility, appearance and suitability of a shoe for different weather conditions. In this guide, we compare four of the most common sole options used by Crockett & Jones – from classic leather soles to more robust Vibram soles.
Start with how and where you expect to wear your shoes most often. These five sole options offer different strengths in terms of grip, weather resistance, comfort and overall appearance.
For those who prioritise a classic appearance, elegance and traditional feel over maximum resistance to wet weather.
Classic · Elegant · FormalFor those looking for a premium traditional leather sole. The slow oak-bark tanning process produces dense, durable sole leather with an elegant and distinctly classic character.
Traditional · Premium · DurableFor those who want a robust and durable rubber sole for rain, autumn weather and more demanding everyday use.
Robust · Durable · VersatileFor those who want to retain a refined appearance while benefiting from the comfort and practical qualities of a rubber sole.
Refined · Lightweight · City & OfficeFor those who prioritise grip, durability and a more substantial feel – particularly on boots and shoes intended for autumn and winter.
Grip · Robust · BootsCrockett & Jones City Sole is designed to combine a more elegant profile with the practical qualities of a rubber sole. Dainite offers a classic balance between durability and traditional appearance, while Vibram places greater emphasis on grip and robustness. Leather soles provide the most traditional look, while oak-bark tanned sole leather is a more premium option with an emphasis on quality and longevity.
Each sole has its own character. Compare feel, intended use and appearance before choosing the right style for you.
Dainite is a classic British rubber sole, easily recognised by its distinctive studded pattern. It combines durability and practical weather resistance with a relatively understated appearance.
City Sole was developed to combine a slim, elegant profile with the practical qualities of rubber. The result is an understated sole that works particularly well on more refined styles.
Vibram soles are developed with an emphasis on grip, durability and function. Crockett & Jones uses, among others, more substantial cleated Vibram soles on boots and other robust styles.
The leather sole is the traditional choice for refined quality footwear. It provides an elegant profile and a classic feel that gradually becomes more supple and adapts to the foot with wear.
Oak-bark tanned sole leather is produced through a slow, traditional tanning process. The result is dense, durable and premium-quality leather used on more refined and traditionally made footwear.
A quick overview of the differences in grip, weather resistance, flexibility and how formal each sole appears.
| Sole | Grip | Weather resistance | Formality | Flexibility | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dainite | Good | Very good | Medium | Medium | Autumn, Derby shoes, boots |
| City Sole | Good | Good | Very high | High | Office, city, commuting |
| Vibram | Very good | Very good | Low–medium | Medium–high | Boots, winter, walking |
| Leather Sole | Limited in wet conditions | Low | Very high | Medium | Formal wear, dry weather |
| Oak-Bark Tanned Leather Sole | Limited in wet conditions | Low | Very high | Medium | Refined footwear, premium styles, dry weather |
Grip will always vary depending on the surface and weather conditions. No conventional shoe sole should be considered slip-proof on ice.
Start with how you expect to use your shoes most often. Here are our simplest recommendations for four common needs.
I spend a lot of time walking in the city
A good choice for office wear, commuting and everyday use when you want to combine a refined appearance with the practicality of a rubber sole.
I want a durable all-round sole
Robust and hard-wearing with a classic profile. A versatile choice for rain, autumn weather and everyday use.
I wear boots during autumn & winter
For those who prioritise grip, robustness and practical performance on more demanding surfaces and during the colder months of the year.
I want the most classic formal shoe
The traditional choice when elegance, classic feel and a formal appearance matter more than maximum weather resistance.
Looking for a more exclusive traditional leather sole? Oak-bark tanned leather is an excellent option if you value traditional shoemaking, material quality and a slow, time-honoured tanning process.
Both are rubber soles, but they give the shoe a noticeably different appearance and are suited to different types of use.
City Sole is slimmer, lighter and more refined. It was developed to offer the elegant profile associated with a leather sole while retaining the more practical qualities of rubber.
Dainite is more substantial and has a distinctly more robust character. It is particularly well suited to Derby shoes, boots and styles worn outdoors during autumn and wet weather.
Office, city & refined wear
City SoleAutumn, Derby shoes & more robust use
DainiteThe sole is only one part of choosing the right shoe. In our autumn and winter footwear guide, we also cover materials, styles and which options are best suited to rain, cold weather and wet conditions.
Four clear examples of how different soles work in practice – from a robust Derby to a refined Oxford and more weather-resistant options.
A robust Derby in Scotch Grain with a classic Dainite sole – a strong choice for autumn, rain and everyday wear.
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A classic black Oxford with Crockett & Jones City Sole – a refined choice for office wear, city use and commuting.
View the style →
A loafer with a more substantial sole for those who prioritise comfort, durability and more practical everyday wear.
View the style →
An elegant black calf Oxford with a classic leather sole – a traditional choice for office wear, formal occasions and refined dressing.
View the style →Yes. Dainite is a durable rubber sole that performs well on wet autumn and winter days. It offers better weather resistance than a traditional leather sole.
No. City Sole is Crockett & Jones' own, more formal rubber sole. It was developed to provide a thinner and more formal appearance than traditional Dainite
It depends on the use. Vibram is often more focused on grip and robustness, while Dainite offers a classic balance between function and traditional appearance.
City Sole is an excellent choice as it combines a dressy look with the practical properties of a rubber sole.
For more robust boots and more demanding winter use, Vibram is often the most functional option. Dainite works very well for regular city use during autumn and winter.
A new leather sole may feel more slippery on wet or very smooth surfaces before the surface has started to wear in.
Occasional contact with moisture is not automatically a problem, but a leather sole is not the first choice for regular use in rain, slush, and very wet weather.
The lifespan depends on how and how often the shoe is used, the user's walking style, and the ground surface. Thicker rubber soles are generally very durable, but even a high-quality leather sole can last a long time with proper use.
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