How to care for suede & nubuck – complete guide
Suede and nubuck have a soft, distinctive surface that requires a different approach to care than smooth leather. With the right brushing, cleaning and protection, the material can retain its texture, colour and character while being better protected from dirt and moisture. In this guide, we explain how to care for suede and nubuck step by step and when to use products such as Saphir Médaille d'Or Rénovateur Spray, Super Invulner, Omni'Nettoyant and Gommadin.
What is the difference between suede and nubuck?
Suede and nubuck both have a soft, matte surface, but they are made from different parts of the leather. This affects their texture, appearance and how they behave in wear.
Suede
Suede is made by sanding the flesh side, or underside, of the leather to create its characteristic soft and velvety surface.
The result is a flexible material with a pronounced texture and a more relaxed appearance than smooth leather.
Nubuck
Nubuck is made by lightly sanding the grain side of the leather. This creates a fine, short and soft surface while retaining more of the structure of the grain layer.
As a result, nubuck can feel slightly denser and finer in texture than traditional suede.
Similar feel – different construction
Suede and nubuck can look very similar and are often cared for with the same types of products. Both benefit from regular brushing, suitable cleaning and protection that does not leave a heavy coating on the surface.
The key is to preserve the soft texture and avoid products intended for smooth leather, such as regular shoe cream and hard wax.
How often should suede shoes be cared for?
Suede and nubuck benefit from regular but gentle care. Rather than following a strict schedule, it is better to look at the condition of the shoes, how often they are worn and the weather they are exposed to.
Brush regularly
Brush away dust and loose dirt after wear or when the surface begins to look flat or dull. Regular brushing helps keep the fibres clean and restores the natural texture of the suede.
Protect when needed
A suitable protector helps shield suede and nubuck from moisture, dirt and stains. Apply to clean, dry shoes and reapply when the protection begins to wear off or after deeper cleaning.
Deep clean only when necessary
Deeper cleaning does not need to be part of every care routine. Use a suitable cleaner when regular brushing is no longer enough, for example with heavier dirt, stains or when the texture has been noticeably affected.
Little and often is better than too much at once
Regular brushing often reduces the need for stronger cleaning. Suede and nubuck do not need to be treated with product every time the shoes are worn – care for the material when it actually needs it.
Start with brushing
Brushing is the foundation of suede and nubuck care. It helps remove dust and loose dirt while lifting the fibres and restoring the natural texture of the material.
The right brush depends on how dirty the shoes are and how much the surface needs to be worked.
Regular brushing
For routine care, a soft brush designed for suede and nubuck is often enough. Gently remove dust and surface dirt and work in several directions to lift the fibres evenly.
View suede brush →Crêpe brush
A crêpe brush is especially useful when the suede has become slightly flat, shiny or lightly soiled. Its soft rubber-like surface helps revive the fibres without being unnecessarily aggressive.
View crêpe brush →Brass brush for greater need
A brass brush can be used when the fibres are more compressed or the surface needs stronger revival. Use it sparingly and with a light hand, especially on finer or more delicate suede.
View brass brush →Which brush should I choose?
Always start with the gentlest method. For regular care, a soft suede brush or crêpe brush is often enough. Move on to a brass brush only when the material genuinely needs more work.
Do not brush unnecessarily hard
Suede and nubuck should be revived, not worn down. Excessive pressure can affect the evenness and character of the surface. Use light pressure and repeat when needed instead.
Rénovateur Spray, Super Invulner & Omni'Nettoyant – when to use what?
Suede and nubuck care products perform different functions. Some are used for regular maintenance, while others are only needed when the shoes become dirty or require additional protection. Start with what the material actually needs.
Rénovateur Spray
When the suede looks dry, dull or lifeless
Rénovateur Spray conditions and refreshes suede and nubuck. Use it when the material needs its softness, colour and character revived.
The spray format allows the product to be distributed evenly across the surface without flattening the delicate fibres.
View Rénovateur Spray →Super Invulner
When the shoes need protection from moisture and dirt
Super Invulner is the protective treatment in the care routine. It helps protect suede and nubuck from moisture, dirt and stains without replacing cleaning or conditioning.
Apply to clean and dry shoes as the protective step after brushing and any necessary conditioning.
View Super Invulner →Omni'Nettoyant
When the shoes are more heavily soiled
Omni'Nettoyant is used for deeper cleaning. Use it when regular brushing is no longer enough, for example when dirt has worked into the material or the shoes require a more thorough clean.
It does not need to be used during every care session. Always begin with brushing and deep clean only when necessary.
View Omni'Nettoyant →Gommadin / suede eraser
For local stains and smaller marks
Gommadin works like an eraser for suede and nubuck. It is particularly useful for small local marks or stains when the entire shoe does not need to be cleaned.
Work gently on the affected area and brush the surface afterwards to restore its texture.
View Gommadin →Suede brush / crêpe brush
When the fibres are lying flat
If the suede has become flat or shiny, it does not always need more product. Often, simply brushing up the fibres is enough to restore the natural texture.
Begin with a gentle suede or crêpe brush and move on to stronger brushing only when genuinely needed.
View brushes for suede & nubuck →Do I need everything?
No. For regular care, brushing, Rénovateur Spray and Super Invulner will cover most needs.
Omni'Nettoyant and Gommadin are used when the shoes require deeper cleaning or when a specific stain needs to be treated.
Brush → clean when needed → allow to dry → restore the nap → Rénovateur Spray → Super Invulner
Choose the right level of suede care
You do not need every product from the start. A simple care kit covers regular maintenance, while a more complete kit also provides everything needed for deeper cleaning and local stains.
Essential Suede Care
For regular conditioning, refreshing and protection of suede and nubuck.
- Rénovateur Spray
- Super Invulner
- Suede brush
A practical core kit for keeping suede shoes clean, refreshed and protected during regular wear.
Regular care · brushing · conditioning · protection
Complete Suede Care
A complete routine for conditioning, protection, cleaning and stain care.
- Rénovateur Spray
- Super Invulner
- Omni'Nettoyant
- Suede brush
- Gommadin
For anyone who wants everything required for both regular maintenance and more thorough cleaning when suede becomes dirty or marked.
Complete care · cleaning · stains · protection
You do not use every product every time
The Essential kit covers the care needed most often. In the Complete kit, Omni'Nettoyant and Gommadin are additional tools for deeper cleaning or treating a specific stain when necessary.
The care behind great shoes.
Quality shoes are made to be worn for years. With the right care, leather can maintain its suppleness, colour and character over time.
Since 1986, Hammargruppen has worked with quality footwear from some of Europe’s leading shoemakers. That experience is behind our selection of Saphir Médaille d'Or and the care routines we recommend.
Vanliga frågor om mockavård
Kan man impregnera mocka?
Ja. Mocka och nubuck kan impregneras med en produkt som är anpassad för materialet. En impregneringsspray som Super Invulner hjälper till att skydda mot fukt, smuts och fläckar utan att lägga en tung hinna över ytan. Applicera alltid på rena och torra skor.
Hur ofta ska man impregnera mockaskor?
Impregnera vid behov snarare än enligt ett fast schema. Hur ofta det behövs beror på hur ofta skorna används och vilket väder de utsätts för. Om skorna ofta används i fuktigt väder eller efter en djupare rengöring kan skyddet behöva förnyas.
Hur rengör man mocka?
Börja alltid med att borsta bort damm och lös smuts. Mindre märken kan behandlas med en mockasudd, medan kraftigare smuts kan kräva en anpassad rengöringsprodukt som Omni'Nettoyant. Låt skorna torka ordentligt efter rengöring och borsta därefter upp fibrerna igen.
Kan man använda vanlig skokräm på mocka?
Nej. Traditionell skokräm och skovax är avsedda för slätt läder och kan trycka ner fibrerna och förändra mockans utseende. Använd istället produkter som är särskilt utvecklade för mocka och nubuck, exempelvis Rénovateur Spray.
Vad är skillnaden mellan mocka och nubuck?
Mocka får sin mjuka yta genom att köttsidan eller undersidan av lädret slipas. Nubuck tillverkas istället genom att narvsidan slipas lätt. Båda materialen får en mjuk, matt yta, men nubuck brukar ha en finare och tätare struktur.
Hur får man bort fläckar från mocka?
Börja med den skonsammaste metoden. Borsta först området och använd vid mindre lokala märken en Gommadin eller annan mockasudd. Om fläcken sitter djupare kan en mer grundlig rengöring med exempelvis Omni'Nettoyant behövas.
Hur återställer man mockans struktur?
Om fibrerna har lagt sig och mockan ser platt eller blank ut kan ytan ofta återställas genom borstning. Använd en mockaborste eller crêpeborste och arbeta försiktigt i olika riktningar för att lyfta fibrerna. Vid större behov kan en mässingsborste användas sparsamt och med lätt hand.
Kan mockaskor användas i regn?
Ja, mockaskor kan användas i lättare regn om de är väl impregnerade. Mocka är dock inte vattentätt, så långvarig väta och kraftigt regn bör undvikas. Om skorna blir blöta, låt dem torka naturligt i rumstemperatur och undvik element eller annan direkt värme.
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